Tags: Churches and Places of Worship, Historical Places
By KC Santos
BOLJOON, CEBU – Cebu is generally considered the seat of Christianity in the Philippines. Roughly three hours away from the city is the oldest stone church in the province, a testament to the country’s colonial past.
Established by the Augustinian friars in the 18th century, the church of Patrocinio de Maria, or simply known as the Boljoon Church, is one of the valued heritage gems of this town.
Boljoon alone has 40 heritage sites, with the church as the most important stop if you’re taking a heritage tour of this town.
If you’ve been to Ilocos or went on a visita iglesia in provinces near Manila like Batangas or Laguna, at first glance, you’ll probably wonder what’s so special about Boljoon’s small and austere church.
The wonders of this church start at its vast front complex, where pre-Hispanic archeological artifacts like pottery and jewelry were excavated.
In fact the church’s ground is so wide that five excavations where conducted and more 16th century artifacts where recovered by the Boljoon Heritage Foundation.
The church is also why the town is hailed the only “Postcard Town in the entire Province of Cebu”, nestled in a plateau facing the wide river in the south, which highlights the vast Bohol Strait and bordered in the east by thick foliage – the towering background of greenery accentuates the church’s quaint, picturesque and natural composition.
The structure itself reflects the early influence of pseudo-Baroque rococo style with solid stone walls that are believed to be made of mortar, lime and the foundation of it’s entirety with albumin or egg white.
Paintwork inside the church is said to have been made by local artists and is retained until after it was declared by the National Historical Institute a National Historical Landmark in 1999 and as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum in the succeeding year.
Equally astonishing is a blockhouse located right beside the church. According to the Heritage Conservation Society, the structure was once used to shelf artillery and that the entire complex fronting the church was designed with defense in mind as slave raids where commonplace at the time. The blockhouse is now converted into a museum.
Just when you think this is all that Boljoon Church has to offer, behind it lies the town cemetery. Unlike other eerie looking cemeteries, though, this one features a symmetrical stone gateway with an arch opening and three-layer pediment.
The stone relief of a human skeleton on top gave it away but it somehow looked more like an immaculate garden than a graveyard.
The church likewise operates differently; it’s closed to the public on certain days, especially on weekdays. This often limits guests the opportunity to take some snapshots of the church’s interiors.
Boljoon Church’s charm, after all, isn’t limited to the fact that it’s centuries old.; it’s the endless series of revelations about its heritage that heightens people’s interest, compelling enough to discover it for themselves.
(How to get there: From the South Bus Terminal in Cebu City, Ceres buses pass by Boljoon. The church is right in front of the municipal hall.)
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