Take a quiet stroll at historic Plaza Cuartel in Puerto Princesa

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By Anna Valmero

PUERTO PRINCESA CITY, PALAWAN—If you have a day to spend to roam around the city, Plaza Cuartel is worth a visit if you’re seeking temporary refuge from your busy schedule.

Known as Lover’s Park among locals, Plaza Cuartel is actually a historical site. According to the historical marker on the right side of the small plaza, this is the site where 150 US Prisoners of War (POW) were burned to death by the Japanese on December 14, 1944, during the Second World War.

The names of the POWs were included in another marker made by war veteran Don T. Schloat, one of 11 survivors of the massacre in Plaza Cuartel.

Before going into the details about the past of Plaza Cuartel, the following is a brief history of Palawan.

In pre-colonial times, the province was connected by land bridges to Borneo, the sultanate of which has control of southern part of Palawan due to its proximity. Palawan was called Kla-ma-yan (now Calamian), Palau-ye (Palawan) and Paki-nung (Busuanga). It had a flourishing trade with Chinese and Malay for centuries as proven by the pottery and glass bead jewelry found in caves.

In the 17th century, Spanish colonizers established missions in Palawan and built churches enclosed by garrisons in the towns of Cuyo, Taytay, Linapacan and Balabac to protect them from marauding Moros.  Some of the forts, according to the Provincial Information Office, are still in existence today.

In 1749, the Sultanate of Borneo surrendered its rule over Palawan and Spain took over the province. The capitol, Puerto Princesa was actually named after Princess Eulalia of Spain, daughter of Queen Isabel II. With the princess’s untimely death, the city was renamed Puerto de la Princesa and then became Puerto Princesa as we know it today.

After Spain left after the 1898 revolution, the Americans took over the country and established a new civil government in the province on June 23, 1902, the founding date of the province as celebrated by locals today.

When Bataan fell during the Second World War, American soldiers were imprisoned by the Japanese and some 300 were recruited to build air fields for the Japanese, including Schloat, according to a blog post by Celeste Anna Formoso, editor of local paper Palawan Times Newsweekly.

Formoso was able to talk to Schloat himself when the latter visited Plaza Cuartel in 2007.

Back in 1942, the 19-year-old Schloat was part of the medical corps and was later recruited to build the airfield in Puerto Princesa. He and about 150 US POWs stayed at Plaza Cuartel. They were forced to do heavy work despite the meager food.

Beside the National Historical Institute marker outside the Plaza Cuartel gate, Schloat donated a marker identifying the 143 POWs who were burned to death by their Imperial Japanese Army Kempei-Tai captors inside the Plaza Cuartel tunnel on the eve of December 15, 1944.

On top of the marker is a figure of a half-naked American man, literally skin-and-bones falling to the ground—a grim reminder of the realities of war as a price for freedom.

After reading the markers and the names inscribed on it, it dawned on me why I feel a certain sadness upon entering the park. It was very quiet and no one else was there except me, my guide and a lady sweeping fallen leaves along tree benches. Even her quiet, solitary presence adds to the serene air of Plaza Cuartel.

The breeze from the sea and shade from the old acacia trees offered welcome relief for us who have been walking under the humid weather for an hour. I would have wanted to stay longer (and maybe do some more “reflection) if not for my early flight schedule.

In both sides of the Plaza Cuartel gate are two entrances to an underground tunnel leading to Honda Bay. Today, it is sealed with steel bars to prevent people from falling into it.  If it is not raining, you can walk to the unpaved road to see Honda Bay below, dotted by hundreds of huts that are home to local fishermen.

Jessa Juntilla, who works at the provincial information office and became my guide, said the park is filled with locals during afternoons and weekends craving for some quiet time from their busy daily routines. I certainly agree.

So if you are looking for a quiet stopover on your next trip to this city, be on the lookout for Plaza Cuartel. You will get the quiet time you deserve while allowing you to contemplate a bit  about history.

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