Burgos Museum in Vigan houses colorful history of Ilocos

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By Anna Valmero

VIGAN CITY, ILOCOS SUR— The centuries-old Burgos Museum was named after the family of Father Jose Apolonio Burgos, one of three “Gomburza” martyr-priests sentenced to death by the Spaniards on charges of mutiny.

Built in 1788 by his grandparents Don Juan Gonzales and Doña Florentina Gascon, the museum still maintains its 19th century interior, especially the second floor where the kitchen, dining area, sala and rooms are located.

The first floor houses artifacts and photos of renowned heroes and political figures in the Ilocos region.

The museum is managed by staff from the National Museum and charges an entrance fee of P10 per person. You can either explore the artifacts yourself or have a guide join you free of charge.

At the first floor, there are ancient wooden shields used by the Tingguian, a tribe up North. There is also an ancient wooden casket with bones of a young tribal princess whose black-and-white picture is hanging on a wall. There are also the bracelets, amulets, jars and vases from the tribe on several tables.

There is even a Pin-pinaing, pinading or sangasang (Tingguian shrine), which used to be found at the gate or entrance of their village. These are called the guardian stones that serve as the house of “Apdel,” the spirit who guards the town and gives them a bountiful harvest.

You could also see the bamboo baskets and fish traps that early Ilocanos used for farming and agriculture, their two main sources of livelihood.

The second floor contains the Burgos family memorabilia – the complete antique furniture and decors of the sala, dining room with a huge fan above the table, altar and bedrooms, and the quarters and mini-library of Father Burgos, which includes a very old Bible and a copy of the novel Noli Me Tangere by Jose Rizal, who was his student at the University of Sto. Tomas.

It should be noted that Rizal dedicated his second novel El Filibusterismo to Father Burgos, which was written after the Gomburza execution.

Near the dining table, there is also an azotea (terrace) where guests are entertained. For the children, there is a small removable window on the wooden wall nearby for them to see celebrations such as town fiestas and Lent processions.

Despite the lack of refrigeration technology, early Filipinos have used local means to preserve food by smoking meat and fish (tinapa), drying for tuyo,and hanging cooked food such as adobo or paksiw above their charcoal-powered pugon (oven).

The kitchen table is about knee-high and the helpers sit on small chairs about half the height of the table — a reminder that cooking is a social activity, a practice seen when women in provinces gather in a house to cook for a special occasion.

Before going down to the garden, one could see old photos of fiestas in Vigan City, including a series of paintings chronicling the Basi revolt. The paintings depict what happened during the bloody fight of Ilocos natives against the Spaniards in defense of their freedom.

Some accounts say the original Basi Revolt painting is in the hands of descendants of the members of the Basi Revolt and the one hanging at the Burgos museum is a replica. Even so, taking pictures of the paintings are prohibited.

It could be noted that the Burgos family is one of the wealthy families in the Spanish era, with their grand home located very near the plaza (now called the Plaza Salcedo).

During this era, only the wealthy are allowed to live and build their homes near the plaza, the central area where the government buildings, the church and other infrastructures are located and town activities are held.

The Burgos Museum is also considered one of the last Spanish-era houses still remaining in the country today, with most of the original furniture still intact. “It’s one of our last links to our colorful past. I’m proud we have it here,” said our tourist guide Efren Vister.

The Burgos Museum is open the entire week except for Mondays and holidays.

Museum hours are from 8:30a.m. to 11:30a.m. and 1:30p.m. to 4:30 p.m.


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