Tags: Environment, Indigenous Culture, Natural Wonders
By Anna Valmero
ADAMS, ILOCOS NORTE – If there is one thing I love about this remote town in a valley up north, it’s the I-Apayaos’ simple life that have kept the lush, soaring trees of its rainforests pristine, just like the way it was when discovered a century ago.
There are several accounts about this town’s origin. One story says it was discovered and named Adams by Basilio Aguinaldo, a native of Bangui town, famous for its towering windmills.
Another story tells of American missionaries who saw local lads bathing at Bolu River. Asking information about the locals, their guide mistakenly said “Kaslada ni Adan” meaning “Just like Adan.” From then on, the town was simply called Adan (Tagalog for Adam) until it was later called Adams.
Yet another story says that the town’s first settlers were tribesmen from Pasaleng Bay, on the lower slopes of the Cordillera mountain called “Tinamburan,” which is now a sitio of Brgy. Pancian in Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte. Upon seeing ships of American settlers who go up north as a respite from the summer heat in Manila, the locals fled deep into the mountain until they found a valley within a river , which they called “Karayan ni Adan” or “River of Adan” in honor of the first man on Earth.
Regardless of these varying oral accounts, one thing is certain about Adams: it is a welcome sight to behold at the thick canopy of trees enveloping the mountains and hearing the sounds of wildlife.
Adams is basically a local community thriving within a healthy rainforest. To discover the heart of Adams’ lush forest and indulge in the wonders of nature even just for a day is an unforgettable experience.
To get to Adams is an experience itself. You have to go on a 40-minute uphill ride either by motorcycle, the common transport of locals, or your own 4×4 vehicle. The towering trees and rocky terrain of the provincial rough road offer an adrenaline-rush as sharp curves and slippery portions can cause even an off-road vehicle to skid. (Watch this video of Adams produced by loQal.ph)
Waking up before six o’clock in the morning, the LOQAL.PH team set out for Lovers’ Peak to catch a great view of the sunrise over the mountains of Magnas and Pico de Loro. We found no signs of lovers who camped there the previous night, though; only the sound of crickets and the soft mountain breeze greeted us. The sun finally rose and settled itself as clouds hovering above the mountains moved slowly to the side, like a theater curtain unveiling the stage.
Our next goal is to trek towards Anuplig Falls, located within Mount Pao. Before heading out, we loaded up on a heavy breakfast – a plateful of pako seaweed dipped in bagoong isda, river shrimps from Bolu River, beef tapa dipped in sukang Iloco and organic mountain rice – to energize us for the one-and-a-half hour hike.
Our guide said locals like her could finish the trail in 30 minutes but I thought to myself that our team of mostly novice hikers would have to take longer than that given our five-minute “power breaks” and talking to locals on their way down to sell crops, which I personally enjoyed.
By mountaineer standards, the hike was easy but there were challenging parts to it – we had to cling on vines to go up steep and slippery slopes, also step on a large piece of stone dangerously set on an eroding patch of loose soil.
After a thousand steps (and in my case, approximately two liters of water), we reached our destination. Euphoric was the best word to describe everybody’s feeling when we set foot on the boulders leading to Anuplig Falls.
The cold yet crystal-clear water cascading from the falls serves as a reward for those who braved going there, particularly on our tired and weary muscles. It also refreshed us enough for our way back to the town.
On our way back, out guide Ate Susan told me of the numerous fauna including medium-sized birds eating the fruits of a tree for lunch on a hot Saturday. It was also my first time to see insects that look like a bigger version of a fat bee minus the yellow striped body. All 13 of them, which Ate Susan called bangaw, were noisily buzzing on a tree.
We passed by huts near rice fields and carabaos swimming in streams to cool down after a day’s work. Strips of the mountain were devoted to farming on man-made rice terraces and along the hills. Irrigation is provided by the natural streams flowing in the mountain.
Because landslides and floods are common in some parts of the mountain, the locals planted trees that have a wide network of root system to help hold the soil and prevent erosion. Ate Susan pointed to me a punong tagalong with heart-shaped leaves. “Maingat ang tao dito na huwag masira yung bundok, kasi kung walang bundok, mahirap na (We take care of the mountains because it is very important to us),” she said.
In Adams, one could see several hanging bridges, where the locals and their Aspins or local dogs traverse, to get from one part of the town to another, especially during the rainy season the river currents are strong.
On our way back to town, we walked along the turquoise waters of the Bolu river. The river, aside from being the source of food for locals, also serves as their swimming pool and laundry area.
After a quick lunch and bidding farewell to our foster family who welcomed all 11 of us for an overnight stay in Adams (there are no hotels or inns, homestay is the only option for accommodations), we set off the leave while the scenic lush forests still lingered in our sights.
That day, I promised to come back again to Adams not only to re-acquiant myself with the gentle ways of its locals, but to keep my hopes alive that it is still possible to live in harmony with nature even in these modern times.
For those interested to schedule a visit to Adams, you may get in touch with the Laoag Eco-Adventure Development (LEAD) Movement through Paul Acupan at 0917.5775111 or Reny Tan at 0919.8735516
(This article also appears on Yahoo! Philippines here)
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