Tags: Food Establishments, Food Fare and Dishes
By Alexander Villafania
DAGUPAN CITY, PANGASINAN – Among the most lasting image of Dagupan affluence was Dagupeña, a restaurant put up by Ignacia Caliolio Bernal.
Bai Inacia, as she was known to most Dagupeños even until now, put up her restaurant in 1928. Back then, it was a small diner that was already serving some distinct Pangasinan and Ilocano food such as pinakbet and sinigang na baboy, and igado.
These dishes were already cooked at home by residents but the fact that these took some time to prepare and cook made Dagupeña a popular establishment to eat home-cooked meals without frills. Essentially, Dagupeña became somewhat a precursor to fast food in the city.
In the past several decades until 2005, Dagupeña stayed at a small spot in AB Fernandez Avenue. During those days, people lined up during lunch or dinner to have a taste of the establishment’s delectable selection of Pangasinan cuisine and a few updates in their already impressive menu.
Among these is the addition of new varieties of bangus, binagoongang crispy pata, breaded hito, enselada, puso ng saging, and igado. The current owner is Bai Inacia’s daughter Emma Bernal-Castro.
Six years ago, Dagupeña moved its location from downtown Dagupan to McArthur Highway, Calasiao, about 5 kilometers from its previous location. The move was both strategic and necessary: Dagupeña was already growing its customer base. It was also built near a huge lot where a new Robinsons Mall is being put up. This, not only gives Dagupeña a lot of space, it also allows it to be visited by a much bigger human traffic.
The new restaurant is much bigger and can seat at least 300 people. The place also retains the traditional wood-and-brick look of the old Dagupeña, including the sliding wooden windows with tainted glass.
Lining up the walls are old photographs of Bai Inacia’s family. The lights had a warm hue, which retained the look and feel of the old restaurant. There is even a small garden at the back of the restaurant for those wanting to have some fresh air while waiting for their food to be prepared and served.
Of course, the menu is still the reason why people would go to the new Dagupeña.
Dr. Anthony Castro, son of Emma and the one who manages the day-to-day operations of the restaurant said that despite the rich and classy feel, the restaurant remains true to its dictum of being a price-conscious diner for residents especially those who have grown accustomed to Dagupeña’s cooking style. He said that people do not have to pay high for good food.
Despite changes in the eating habits of people, especially with the increasing number of fast food restaurants in Dagupan City, Castro, a practicing ophthalmologist, said he believes people will continue to be drawn to the allure of classic food fare that cannot be matched by even the volume amount of fast food.
“It’s even surprising to know that Dagupeña also has a reputation among people from Manila. I’ve had encounters with people who tell me what they’d want to do in Dagupan when they come and visit: buy bangus or eat at Dagupan. It gives us pleasure that the reputation of Dagupeña remains strong even through these years,” Castro said.
Even with the success of Dagupeña, Castro said they are still wary about expanding their operations. While franchising could have positive effects on their business, he said that having only one helps him and his family maintain the quality of food that made Dagupeña a success story.
“Only God knows what we’re going to do next but right now, we’re only trying to maintain our business. The restaurant is as close to us as family,” Castro said.
Get more information about Dagupeña
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The foods are excellent. If you ever visit Dagupena, try the binagoongang crispy pata it’s very good humm yummy. Ate Emma thank you very much for your generous hospitality. We hope to visit Dagupena again soon.